We haven't carried a Kenyan coffee at Skylark before... Why not? Well, we feel like the price you pay should match the quality you get, and Kenya's been difficult from that perspective for a while. Due to a combination of decreased volume and quality in the last 6 years (caused by climate change, politics, and some bad bacteria), Kenyan coffees are more expensive and less tasty than they used to be. We believe that this one breaks the mold. It's got delicious flavours of Rose Jelly, Meyer Lemon, and Pomegranate, with a juicy body... Well worth your time at 10 quid a bag!
We sourced this coffee with our friends at Falcon Coffee, and you can read more below about the cooperative that produced it.
Gakuyu-ini is located in Kyrinyaga County in the Central Highlands of Kenya and is a member of the Thirikwa Cooperative Society. The factory is set in a beautiful, fertile, and forested location and is surrounded by thousands of smallholder subsistence farmers who grow coffee as a cash crop alongside potatoes, bananas, mangoes, and avocados. The average altitude of these smallholdings is approximately 1,650 masl, a factor that contributes to the fine flavour of the coffee. The growers have the advantage of deep and rich soils that were created from the ash of the extinct volcano – Mount Kenya. Coffee varieties used by the farmers are mainly SL28, SL34, Ruiru 11, Batian, and SL28 grafted onto Ruiru rootstock. The latter combines the hardy and disease-resistant properties of Ruiru 11 with the fine cup of SL28.
The Gakuyu-ini factory processes coffee using methods typical throughout Kenya. Local people are paid to pick the ripe coffee cherries between October and January and these are pulped using disc pulpers in the wet mill. The water used to convey the resulting mucilage coated beans also aids quality separation by density since heavier beans sink in the water whilst lighter beans float on the surface. By channeling these beans separately three grades of parchment coffee are created; P1 (the best), P2 and P3. The parchment coffee is then channeled into large tanks where dry fermentation occurs during the following 24 hours or so. Once the mucilage is loose, the beans take on a pebble-like feel and so the fermentation process is halted by washing the beans in channels full of water, where further quality separation takes place, since low grade ‘floaters’ can be directed away from the dense high-quality beans. Next, the parchment coffee is channeled to a soak tank where it sits in cold water for around 24 hours, a process that develops the amino acids within the beans and is thought to contribute to Kenyan coffee’s unique flavours. Next, the parchment is laid in a thin layer upon raised beds and allowed to dry under the sun for between 11 and 14 days. The coffee then undergoes a period of storage or ‘resting’ before being delivered to a mill where the parchment will be removed, and the coffee screened and cleaned to remove any defects. It will then be graded by size to create AA, AB, PB, etc and finally, it will be packed in grain-pro lined bags or in vacuum packs ready for export.