Y'all. FRESH CROP ETHIOPIA IS HERE!!! We're happy to report that the coffees from this year are both early in arriving to the UK, and more importantly, they're amazing. We'll be rolling out more than a dozen Ethiopian lots in the next few months, and this is the most classic washed coffee of them all. If you love clean, stone fruit and floral Ethiopian washed coffees, this is one of the best of the year (we've cupped over 50 lots to find this one). Notes of Camomile, Apricot, and Nectarine will greet you out of your cup, and this will make for a stunner of an iced summertime pourover.
We sourced this coffee through Mercanta and Daye Bensa. A lot of our Ethiopian coffees tend to come through Daye Bensa these days, since they're one of the best exporters for maintaining a good chain of custody for the coffee. It's actually really difficult to make sure the coffee you buy from Ethiopia is the coffee you'll receive, and Daye Bensa do a great job.
High up in the rich area of Shantawene are a collection of smallholder coffee producers within the Sidama region of Ethiopia. Roughly 940 producers here, growing coffee on small plots of land, gather their cherries to be processed at the Buncho Washing Station run by our exporting partners, Daye Bensa.
Daye Bensa, the exporting organization in Ethiopia, provides assistance to producers to sell their coffee. The owner of the mill, Asefa Dukamo, was introduced to coffee at a young age as his parents were cultivating coffee and other garden crops. In his teens, he began to supply neighboring coffee washing stations with cherries purchased from nearby relatives and villagers in addition to his own family’s farm. He realized that there were not many washing stations nearby, and he had to travel great distances to deliver his coffee. Thus began the idea to construct his own washing station to reduce the travel time for coffee producers in his region. In 1997, he constructed a washing station in the Girja village, less than one mile from his parents’ house. The following year, another washing station was constructed in Eltama, 30 kms from Girja. Dukamo then moved to the Daye town in the Bensa district, setting up the mother washing station called Qonqana. Eventually, a dry mill was added to provide facilities for naturally processed coffees.
Asefa’s younger brother, Mulugeta Dukamo, is the co-founder of Daye Bensa Coffee exporters, and played a key role in the expansion of the washing stations. Today, Daye Bensa operates in six woredas: Bensa, Bura, Chabe, Hoko (Girja), Aroressa and Chire with 20 washing stations, five mills and three coffee farms. As well as coffee, producers in the region will plant other crops such as sugarcane, a variety of fruits and “Inset”; a common indigenous plant that can be prepared as food in different forms. Income from coffee is important, but minimal for most farmers due to the small size of their farms. As such, inputs are minimal – most coffee grown in the region is 100% organic, though not certified due to high certification costs, as farmers simply do not have the money to apply chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. Producers working with the Abore Station face a number of obstacles when growing coffee. This includes a lack of access to electricity, water, telecommunication, and road access. In addition, producers in the region suffer from reduced exposure to knowledge on the best coffee farming practices which can directly impact yield and quality.
Fortunately, Daye Bensa has been working to combat these challenges, initiating their “Back to the Community” projects. So far, projects have included the building of roads to connect villages, installing electricity transformers and supplying producers with training in coffee plantation etiquette and better agricultural practices. Daye Bensa has numerous goals outlined for the coming years including an improvement on agricultural training and the construction of a Health Facility for producers and families. The impact the Dukamo family has on the region is significant due to the many farms they have been able to reach – educating youths about coffee production and connecting producers to global coffee markets. For processing, the journey begins with only the ripest cherries being selectively handpicked. Once collected, the cherries are delivered to the mill to be sorted based on density and quality. This process is carried out by submerging the cherries in tanks and removing the floating cherries prior to drying. After sorting, the cherries are then moved to traditional raised beds lined with mesh nets. Once here, the cherries are rotated every 30 minutes to ensure even drying and to prevent over-fermentation. Drying typically takes about 12-15 days depending on the temperature and humidity. Once the coffee is dried, producers will travel, generally, via horseback or motorcycle 2-5kms to the dry mill. Once at the mill, the coffee is hulled via machine before being packed, ready for export.
The Abore Station is one example, whereby producers bring coffee cherries to be processed and purchased. Named after a neighboring bridge constructed for a local chief, the Bombe Abore Station is situated beside a beautiful waterfall. Sidama Producing Region Located in the southern reaches of Ethiopia, Sidama is well-known for coffee. Yet, recently, it has been regularly contested about the correct spelling – Sidama versus Sidamo. After a referendum in June 2020, Sidama officially became a regional state in Ethiopia, thus the ‘Sidamo’ spelling was deemed incorrect. This region is home to nearly 3.2 million people speaking the Sidama language with their own culture and traditions. Additionally, this region is prized with fertile soils, high altitudes, and an ideal climate for high quality coffee. The coffee industry, since the growth of popularity of coffee from Ethiopia, widely uses ‘Sidamo,’ but due to the aforementioned political changes, Sidama is the correct reference to the famed coffee-producing region.