Why is every washed Ethiopian just better than washed coffees from anywhere else? Maybe that's not quite true, but we reckon it's a decent rule of thumb. Probably the coffee trees know they're in their natural environment, and they're happy to be there! However you slice it, this washed coffee has notes of Nectarine, Bergamot, and a sparkly acidity. It punches well above its weight in terms of flavour/cost ratio!
We sourced this coffee through Falcon and Daye Bensa. A lot of our Ethiopian coffees tend to come through Daye Bensa these days, since they're one of the best exporters for maintaining a good chain of custody for the coffee. It's actually really difficult to make sure the coffee you buy from Ethiopia is the coffee you'll receive, and Daye Bensa do a great job.
Founded on the slopes of the Shanta Golba mountain, with an elevation of 1860 – 2160 MASL. Damo Station acquires red cherries from nearby farmers and processes in a variety of ways. Equipped with eco-friendly depulping and pressure sorting machinery dedicated for washed coffee & fermentation tanks for anaerobic processing. The station provides working opportunities for 100 people and provides the main income for the nearby farmers during coffee harvesting seasons and pays 20-30% more than the average amount for coffee producers. The fermentation tanks are built in a shade, to provide a comfortable environment for the workers and to protect the cherries from rain and high exposure to direct sunlight and heat. Damo Processed Coffees have sensory profiles of an aroma of jasmine and yellow fruits, with sweet notes of peach and tropical fruit jam. The cup presents a delicate acidity, a very juicy and sweet flavor, with a full body.
Daye Bensa, the exporting organization in Ethiopia, provides assistance to producers to sell their coffee. The owner of the mill, Asefa Dukamo, was introduced to coffee at a young age as his parents were cultivating coffee and other garden crops. In his teens, he began to supply neighboring coffee washing stations with cherries purchased from nearby relatives and villagers in addition to his own family’s farm. He realized that there were not many washing stations nearby, and he had to travel great distances to deliver his coffee. Thus began the idea to construct his own washing station to reduce the travel time for coffee producers in his region. In 1997, he constructed a washing station in the Girja village, less than one mile from his parents’ house. The following year, another washing station was constructed in Eltama, 30 kms from Girja. Dukamo then moved to the Daye town in the Bensa district, setting up the mother washing station called Qonqana. Eventually, a dry mill was added to provide facilities for naturally processed coffees.
Asefa’s younger brother, Mulugeta Dukamo, is the co-founder of Daye Bensa Coffee exporters, and played a key role in the expansion of the washing stations. Today, Daye Bensa operates in six woredas: Bensa, Bura, Chabe, Hoko (Girja), Aroressa and Chire with 20 washing stations, five mills and three coffee farms. As well as coffee, producers in the region will plant other crops such as sugarcane, a variety of fruits and “Inset”; a common indigenous plant that can be prepared as food in different forms. Income from coffee is important, but minimal for most farmers due to the small size of their farms. As such, inputs are minimal – most coffee grown in the region is 100% organic, though not certified due to high certification costs, as farmers simply do not have the money to apply chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. Producers working with the Abore Station face a number of obstacles when growing coffee. This includes a lack of access to electricity, water, telecommunication, and road access. In addition, producers in the region suffer from reduced exposure to knowledge on the best coffee farming practices which can directly impact yield and quality.
Fortunately, Daye Bensa has been working to combat these challenges, initiating their “Back to the Community” projects. So far, projects have included the building of roads to connect villages, installing electricity transformers and supplying producers with training in coffee plantation etiquette and better agricultural practices. Daye Bensa has numerous goals outlined for the coming years including an improvement on agricultural training and the construction of a Health Facility for producers and families. The impact the Dukamo family has on the region is significant due to the many farms they have been able to reach – educating youths about coffee production and connecting producers to global coffee markets. For processing, the journey begins with only the ripest cherries being selectively handpicked. Once collected, the cherries are delivered to the mill to be sorted based on density and quality. This process is carried out by submerging the cherries in tanks and removing the floating cherries prior to drying. After sorting, the cherries are then moved to traditional raised beds lined with mesh nets. Once here, the cherries are rotated every 30 minutes to ensure even drying and to prevent over-fermentation. Drying typically takes about 12-15 days depending on the temperature and humidity. Once the coffee is dried, producers will travel, generally, via horseback or motorcycle 2-5kms to the dry mill. Once at the mill, the coffee is hulled via machine before being packed, ready for export.
